Face Shape Analysis
Hairstyle Guide
Your face shape determines which hairstyles will look best on you. Below are specific recommendations for each shape, with exact instructions to give your barber.
Not sure of your face shape? Pull your hair back, look in the mirror straight on, and trace the outline of your face. Compare to the descriptions below.
Face Shape
Oval Face
Forehead is slightly wider than the chin, with prominent cheekbones. The face gracefully narrows toward the jaw. Considered the most versatile face shape.
Key Principles
- 1Almost any hairstyle works — you have the most flexibility
- 2Avoid covering your forehead entirely, as proportions are already balanced
- 3Experiment freely with length and texture
Recommended Styles
Textured Quiff
Medium MaintenanceVolume on top with textured, swept-back movement. Sides tapered or faded.
Why it works: Adds vertical interest without disrupting your naturally balanced proportions.
“Scissor cut on top with 3-4 inches of length, blended taper on the sides. Keep weight in the fringe for styling upward.”
Classic Side Part
Low MaintenanceClean part line with length swept to one side. Polished and professional.
Why it works: Timeless look that highlights balanced facial symmetry.
“2-3 inches on top, find the natural part line, #2 guard on sides with a taper. Clean up the neckline.”
French Crop
Low MaintenanceShort, textured top with a blunt or choppy fringe. Faded or tapered sides.
Why it works: Modern and low-effort while still looking intentional on an oval face.
“Mid fade on sides, textured crop on top about 2 inches, choppy fringe that sits on the forehead.”
Longer Textured Layers
High MaintenanceMedium-length hair with layers for movement and texture throughout.
Why it works: Oval faces can handle length without looking elongated or round.
“Keep 4-6 inches on top with layers for texture. Taper the sides to keep it shaped. Point-cut the ends for natural movement.”
Styles to Avoid
- ✕Heavy, flat bangs that hide the forehead and make the face look shorter
- ✕Extremely long curtains that pull the face down
Face Shape
Round Face
Face length and width are nearly equal. Soft, curved jawline with full cheeks. The goal is to add angles and height.
Key Principles
- 1Add height on top to elongate the face
- 2Keep the sides short and tight to reduce width
- 3Avoid equal length all around — it emphasizes roundness
- 4Angular styles create the illusion of a more defined jawline
Recommended Styles
Pompadour
High MaintenanceSignificant volume swept up and back from the forehead. Tight, faded sides.
Why it works: Maximum height on top elongates the face dramatically, while tight sides slim the width.
“High skin fade on sides, leave 4-5 inches on top for volume. Square off the back. Need enough length to pomade back and up.”
High Fade with Textured Top
Medium MaintenanceSkin or bald fade up high with messy, voluminous texture on top.
Why it works: The high fade removes width at the temples while textured height stretches proportions vertically.
“High bald fade, keep 3 inches on top, point-cut for texture. Blend into a skin fade at the temples.”
Faux Hawk
Medium MaintenanceLonger strip of hair down the center, styled upward, with short faded sides.
Why it works: Creates a strong vertical line that counters the circular face shape.
“Mid to high fade on sides, leave a wider section on top — about 3-4 inches. Taper gradually so it blends, not a hard mohawk line.”
Angular Fringe
Medium MaintenanceAsymmetric fringe swept to one side with disconnected, short sides.
Why it works: Diagonal lines break up the roundness and add visual interest and angles.
“Disconnected undercut on sides, 3-4 inches on top swept to the right. Cut the fringe at an angle, longer on one side.”
Styles to Avoid
- ✕Buzz cuts or uniform short lengths that mirror the round shape
- ✕Center-parted curtain bangs that frame and emphasize the roundness
- ✕Chin-length bobs or any style that adds width at the cheeks
Face Shape
Square Face
Strong, angular jawline with a broad forehead. Face length and width are similar but with sharp angles. A masculine shape that works well with many styles.
Key Principles
- 1You can handle both short and long styles — the jaw does the work
- 2Softer textures on top balance the angular jaw
- 3Avoid overly sharp, geometric cuts that make the face look boxy
- 4Some fringe can soften the strong forehead
Recommended Styles
Textured Crop with Soft Fringe
Low MaintenanceShort, messy texture on top with a piece-y fringe. Tapered sides.
Why it works: Soft texture offsets the hard jaw angles. The fringe adds a relaxed, modern feel.
“Taper fade on sides, 2-3 inches on top with heavy texture. Leave the fringe soft and piece-y, not blunt.”
Swept-Back Taper
Medium MaintenanceMedium length on top swept back with natural movement. Classic taper on the sides.
Why it works: Exposes the strong jawline while the swept-back flow adds movement that softens the overall look.
“Classic taper on sides, 3-4 inches on top. Thin out the top if hair is thick. I want to style it swept back with some product.”
Buzz Cut or Crew Cut
Low MaintenanceVery short all around or slightly longer on top with a fade.
Why it works: Square faces are one of the few shapes that can pull off very short hair — the jawline provides all the structure needed.
“Crew cut — #2 on top, #1 on sides, skin fade at the bottom. Clean up the edges sharp.”
Medium-Length Side Sweep
Medium Maintenance4-5 inches on top swept to one side with a natural part. Blended sides.
Why it works: The asymmetric sweep softens the symmetrical square proportions while keeping it clean.
“4-5 inches on top, scissor-cut sides blended into the top. Part it on my natural side. Light layers for movement.”
Styles to Avoid
- ✕Flat tops or anything that creates another horizontal line across the top
- ✕Overly geometric, sharp-edged styles that make the face look like a box
Face Shape
Heart Face
Wider forehead and cheekbones tapering to a narrower, pointed chin. Often with a widow's peak. The goal is to balance the top-heavy proportions.
Key Principles
- 1Add width or texture at the jaw level to balance the narrow chin
- 2Avoid excessive volume on top which exaggerates the wide forehead
- 3Side-swept styles work well to minimize forehead width
- 4Medium lengths are generally the sweet spot
Recommended Styles
Side-Swept Fringe
Medium MaintenanceMedium-length fringe swept across the forehead. Textured sides at medium length.
Why it works: The fringe covers part of the wide forehead while directing attention to the mid-face.
“3-4 inches on top with a side-swept fringe. Keep the sides medium length, not faded tight. Blend everything together with scissors.”
Textured Mid-Length
Medium MaintenanceAll-over medium length (3-5 inches) with layered texture throughout.
Why it works: Adds width at ear level which balances the narrow chin. The texture prevents it from looking heavy on top.
“Even length around 4 inches with layers. Keep the sides full — don't fade them tight. Thin it out if needed for texture, not volume removal.”
Low Fade with Longer Top
Medium MaintenanceGradual low fade with 3-4 inches on top styled with natural movement.
Why it works: The low fade keeps some width at the sides rather than making the top look wider by contrast.
“Low fade starting just above the ear, 3-4 inches on top. Blend gradually — no hard lines. Keep enough weight in the sides to balance.”
Messy Bedhead
Low MaintenanceControlled chaos — medium length with deliberate, tousled texture in all directions.
Why it works: Diffuses the strong forehead line and adds visual width below the cheekbones.
“3-4 inches all around, heavy point-cutting for texture. I want it to look effortless and messy when styled with a matte product.”
Styles to Avoid
- ✕Slicked-back styles that fully expose the wide forehead
- ✕High-volume pompadours that add more width on top
- ✕Very short sides with tall tops — emphasizes the inverted triangle shape
Face Shape
Oblong Face
Face is noticeably longer than it is wide. Forehead, cheekbones, and jawline are similar widths. The goal is to add width and avoid adding more height.
Key Principles
- 1Add width at the sides — do not fade them too tight
- 2Keep the top shorter or styled flat to avoid elongating further
- 3Bangs or fringe can visually shorten the face
- 4Avoid tall, voluminous styles that add vertical length
Recommended Styles
Textured Fringe (French Crop)
Low MaintenanceShort textured top with a fringe that covers part of the forehead. Tapered sides.
Why it works: The fringe shortens the visible face length while the texture keeps it modern.
“French crop — 2 inches on top, textured fringe that sits on the forehead. Low taper on sides, keep some weight. Don't fade too high.”
Side Part with Volume at Sides
Low MaintenanceClassic part with the sides left fuller than usual. Top styled flat or with minimal height.
Why it works: Fuller sides add width to counter the length. Flat top avoids adding more height.
“Scissor cut all around. 2-3 inches on top parted to the side, styled flat. Keep the sides at a #4 guard or longer — I need width, not a fade.”
Curtain Bangs
Medium MaintenanceMedium-length hair parted in the middle with bangs framing the face on both sides.
Why it works: Creates horizontal lines across the forehead and adds width at the temples, visually shortening the face.
“4-5 inches on top, center part, with curtain bangs that hit the cheekbone. Layer the sides to add fullness. Keep the back tapered and clean.”
Classic Taper (No Fade)
Low MaintenanceTraditional barbershop taper with proportional length throughout. No skin-show fades.
Why it works: Maintaining hair on the sides preserves facial width. The proportional cut keeps things balanced.
“Classic taper — scissors on the sides, about 2 inches on top. No skin fade. Just a clean taper that keeps fullness. Trim the neckline squared.”
Styles to Avoid
- ✕High fades that make the face look even longer
- ✕Tall pompadours or quiffs with significant height
- ✕Slicked-back styles that expose the full face length
- ✕Very short buzz cuts that offer no width
Face Shape
Diamond Face
Narrow forehead and jawline with wide, prominent cheekbones. The rarest face shape. The goal is to add width at the forehead and chin while softening cheekbones.
Key Principles
- 1Add width at the forehead with fringe or volume on top
- 2Keep some length at the chin/jaw area
- 3Avoid slicking hair back which exposes the narrow forehead
- 4Textured styles work better than sleek ones
Recommended Styles
Textured Quiff with Volume
Medium MaintenanceVoluminous quiff at the front with textured movement. Tapered sides.
Why it works: Adds width at the forehead to match the wide cheekbones, creating visual balance.
“3-4 inches on top, especially at the front for quiff volume. Low to mid taper on sides. Keep the top thick — don't thin it out.”
Side-Swept with Full Fringe
Medium MaintenanceFringe swept to one side, covering part of the forehead with fullness.
Why it works: The fringe adds perceived width to the narrow forehead while the sweep adds asymmetric interest.
“3-4 inches on top with a heavy fringe swept to the left/right. Scissor-cut sides, keep them medium length. Blend the fringe into the sides.”
Medium-Length Textured Layers
High MaintenanceAll-over medium length with layers creating width and movement throughout.
Why it works: Even layering at all levels creates consistent width, masking the diamond's narrow-wide-narrow pattern.
“4-5 inches all around with heavy layers. I want fullness and movement everywhere. Don't take weight out — just shape it. Leave the sideburns slightly longer.”
Messy Fringe with Tapered Sides
Low MaintenanceDeliberately messy fringe falling over the forehead, with a clean taper on the sides.
Why it works: The messy fringe widens the forehead visually and the texture draws attention away from angular cheekbones.
“Choppy, piece-y fringe about 3 inches long, sits on the forehead. Taper the sides with scissors, nothing too tight. Texture shears on top.”
Styles to Avoid
- ✕Slicked-back hair that fully reveals the narrow forehead
- ✕High, tight fades that draw attention to wide cheekbones
- ✕Very short styles that have no width correction
- ✕Center parts that bisect the narrow forehead
Product Guide
Hair Products
The right product makes or breaks a hairstyle. Here is what each type does and when to use it.
Pomade
Slicked-back styles, pompadours, classic side parts. Best for guys who want a polished, defined look.
How to use: Work a dime-sized amount between palms until warm, then apply to towel-dried or dry hair. Style into place with a comb. Oil-based pomades can be restyled throughout the day.
Recommended
- Baxter of California Clay Pomade ($23)
- Suavecito Original Hold Pomade ($14)
- Layrite Super Hold Pomade ($19)
Clay
Textured, messy styles, crops, and any look where you want volume without shine. Ideal for fine or thin hair.
How to use: Rub a small amount between palms (it will feel dry and chalky). Apply to dry hair for maximum texture. Work it in from the back forward, then style upward and outward.
Recommended
- Hanz de Fuko Claymation ($24)
- Arcadian Clay Pomade ($20)
- Baxter of California Clay Effect Style Spray ($22)
Paste
Versatile everyday styling. Natural-looking texture with some definition. Works on most hair types and lengths.
How to use: Warm a pea-sized amount between palms. Apply to damp or dry hair, working through evenly. Shape with fingers for a relaxed, natural finish.
Recommended
- Blind Barber 90 Proof Matte Pomade ($22)
- Bumble and bumble Sumotech ($30)
- Kevin Murphy Rough Rider ($40)
Gel
Slicked-back looks, hard parts, and styles that need to stay locked in place all day. Best for thick, coarse hair.
How to use: Apply to wet hair for maximum hold and shine. Comb into place immediately — gel sets as it dries and becomes difficult to rework.
Recommended
- Got2b Ultra Glued Gel ($6)
- Eco Style Olive Oil Gel ($5)
- Bumble and bumble Gel ($29)
Sea Salt Spray
Surfer-style texture, natural waves, and effortless tousled looks. Great for medium to long hair.
How to use: Spray onto damp hair from 6 inches away. Scrunch with hands for waves, or let air-dry for natural texture. Can layer with clay for more hold.
Recommended
- Bumble and bumble Surf Spray ($29)
- Sun Bum Sea Spray ($15)
- Byrd Texturizing Surf Spray ($18)
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